QUINCY, MASS. — A recurring message at the Research Chefs Association’s (RCA’s) recent conference was there are no rules in food innovation when using Culinology, the discipline of combining the culinary arts with food science. Think frozen sushi, lasagna soup and … fat washing?
Fat washing is a technique pioneered by mixologists that is now being explored for the development of sauces, drizzles and other condiments.
“It’s a technique that infuses layers of complex flavors together and helps create a softer, more supple mouthfeel in otherwise sharp spirits,” said Andrew Hunter, a research and development chef based in Los Angeles. “It is equally valuable in the kitchen to infuse condiments with layers of umami-rich flavors and kokumi ‘mouthful-ness.’
“Savvy culinologists can apply fat-washed infusions in sweet and savory product development across a spectrum of foodservice and manufacturing applications.”
The process involves cooking a solid fat — usually butter — and cooking it to the point of browning with aromatics such as herbs, spices and whatever you can imagine, said Hunter. Then the liquid fat is blended with another liquid, such as soy sauce, fruit juice or water-downed vegetable puree. After allowing the two to combine, maybe with the help of some blending, the mixture is drained to remove bits and particulates. Then it’s chilled. The fat rises to the top, now infused with flavors, while the liquid sinks to the bottom, also infused with flavor, including fat aromatics.
“Both parts may be used for cooking,” Hunter said. “The two may also be combined through the use of an emulsifier. This is probably the best way to commercialize the technology.”
Hunter’s discussion of fat washing was just one aspect of “Revolutionizing food, reimaging innovation,” the theme of the RCA conference hosted by the RCA on March 5-7 in Quincy, Mass.
Hunter also explained that umami and kokumi is where the action is in food innovation today. His assertion was supported and expanded upon by other speakers, who explained that sometimes the source of umami and kokumi come from unexpected ingredients.
Umami is the fifth basic taste. Bitter, salty, sour and sweet are the other four. The RCA attendees learned that US-grown kelp may be used as a source of umami.
“Our kelp is blanched before it gets frozen,” said Briana Warner, president and chief executive officer, Atlantic Sea Farms, Saco, Maine. “This turns it bright green and knocks off some of that deep ocean flavor.”
She explained how using powdered kelp at a low level, such as 1% of a formulation, introduces umami to a food without any fishy taste. A common application is in vegan Caesar salad dressing. The kelp enables the omission of aged Italian cheese and the anchovies. It also helps lower the sodium content.
Korean soy sauce, which is very different from Japanese soy sauce, is now being used by Italian restaurants to introduce a layer of umami into vegan risotto, said Jaume Biarnes, marketing director and head chef, Yondu, New York. Risotto historically gets its umami from aged cheeses such as Parmesan.
Then there’s kokumi.
“We now know that kokumi is not the sixth taste,” said Aaron Andrews, associate corporate chef, Ajinomoto Health & Nutrition, Chicago. “Kokumi does not have any flavor. It is a flavor modifier. It increases the intensity of the basic tastes, as well as certain flavors, namely pungent ones, such as garlic, onion and chili peppers.”
Produced using precision fermentation, yeast extract is a source of umami. It is considered a natural ingredient and is identified on ingredient statements as “yeast extract,” said Elizabeth Morrow, principal food scientist at Ajinomoto.
Many of the expo’s exhibitors put umami and kokumi to work in the samples they served. Attendees sampled an Asian-inspired Fenway frank, which was a baseball park hot dog with a Szechuan cabbage slaw, topped with Chinese sausage bits, fortune cookie crumbles and chili crisp flavor-infused scallions. Other highlights included a bacon jam cheesy éclair, cheeseburger-flavored cotton candy, a Thai lobster salad topped with a honey sambal cured egg yolk on buttery crostini, peach foam yuzu sake mocktail.